Permits & Inspections Department

Operating Hours 

We are open from 8:00 AM thru 4:30 PM, Monday thru Friday except on holidays.

Location

We are located in the City Hall Annex, 204 West Mission Avenue, next to City Hall.

Permit Standards

We enforce the different building codes listed below, within our city and our jurisdictional two mile limit. The rough boundaries are Harrison street (North), two blocks South of Platteview road (South), Missouri river (East), and a very uneven (West) line starting at 62nd and Harrison Street to 48^th and Cornhusker, then a jogging line South Westerly to 60^th and Maass Road and back to 48^th & Platteview. See Bellevue Jurisdictional Map.

The City of Bellevue enforces the following building codes:

• 2006 International Building Code
• 2006 International Residential Code
• 2006 Uniform Plumbing Code
• 2006 International Mechanical Code
• 2006 International Fuel Code
• 2008 National Electrical Code
• 1997 Uniform Administrative Code
• City of Bellevue Amendments

You are required to have a license for building construction in the Bellevue jurisdiction.

You are required to have a Bellevue plumbing or mechanical license if you perform plumbing or mechanical work for someone else or in other than the home you own and live in.

You are required to have a Nebraska State electrical license to install electrical wiring for someone else or in other than the home you own and live in.

Homeowners may do electrical, plumbing, or mechanical work without a license only in the home they own & live in. They still need a permit & inspections of work for code and safety reasons. They may not install electrical, plumbing, or mechanical work in a new dwelling they are building, since they are not living in it at the time.

Permit Applications

Permit applications may be obtained from the permits department during normal duty hours.  Additionally, permit forms may be downloaded using the links below.  These are in Adobe Acrobat pdf format.  Adobe Acrobat can be downloaded for free using this link: www.adobe.com.

Download the permit application and call 293-3014 during normal working hours to assist in computation of fees due, if necessary.

WHEN PERMITS ARE NOT REQUIRED

Permits are not needed if you replace your doors or windows and they do not exceed the same width or extend above the present height,  although when replacing bedroom windows, note the following: All bedrooms shall have at least one door or Egress Window that leads directly to the outside of the house. See Sleeping Room Requirements.

You do not need a permit to install or replace your driveway, and it may extend up to your lot lines. Caution, you may need a curb grind permit.

No permits are needed when installing automobile or recreational vehicle storage pads, although there are requirements as to distance from a lot line a vehicle may be stored.

No permit is required for cosmetic work to your home such as, painting your home, wallpapering, installing carpeting, wall tiles, or floor tiles.

A permit is not required if you construct a storage shed when it is120 square feet or less in total size and it is a minimum of five feet or more from your side or rear lot lines and a minimum of six feet from your home or other buildings. You may not erect it in front of your dwelling. When you live on a street corner or alley corner, there are other zoning distances regarding traffic viewing safety that you need to check on besides the "five feet from your lot lines".

WHEN PERMITS ARE REQUIRED

The following are miscellaneous items that require permits and useful information regarding them:

Removing, moving, or constructing walls inside your home, constructing rooms, creating rooms or bedrooms (See basement finishing paragraph).

Installing or replacing doors or windows that are wider than original or when they will extend above original height level or if replacing bedroom windows, then at least one bedroom window shall meet the egress window specifications in the "Sleeping Room Requirements".

Anytime you change the engineering qualities of your home's construction.

Storage buildings that are more than120 square feet require permits and the permit fee is based on the building permit valuation table, 3A-UAC, which will include labor if any. It may be constructed with a monolithic floor and footing using a shallow one square foot down-turned curb as it's perimeter, when it is 750 square feet or less. Storage buildings larger than 750 square need to be constructed with frost depth (42 inch deep) footings and are required to be five feet or more from your side or rear lot lines and a minimum of six feet from your home or other buildings. When you live on a street or alley corner, there are other zoning distances regarding traffic viewing safety that you need to check on besides the "five feet from your lot lines". Bring a copy of your plot plan showing your lot and dwelling location. Indicate on it where the storage building will be erected. You may not erect it in front of your dwelling. (Your plot plan should be with your house mortgage papers).

You will need to fill out a building permit application denoting the address where the storage building is being constructed (Job Address), #2 owner's name, #3 who is constructing the building (yourself or a company), #7 describe what you are building, the size, and location (Such as rear of dwelling and distance from lot lines), #8 the valuation (cost plus labor if any), and last your signature with date at the bottom. (The #numbers are the numbered lines on the building permit application).

You need to provide 2 copies of your plans (to scale), showing a plan view (top) and elevation view (side), along with a wall section.

Garage construction require permits. The permit fee is based on the 'Building Permit Fee Table' which will include labor if any. A garage that is 750 square feet or less may be constructed with a monolithic concrete floor and footing using a shallow one square foot down-turned curb as it's perimeter. You may never combine a shallow footing with a 42 " frost depth footing. Garages have a height limit of fifteen feet measured at the front and from grade level to a point that is ½ of the actual roof height (The roof height is measured from a horizontal line between the eaves and straight up to the peak). You may add extra height when building further from the minimum set-back area. (See Planning Dept). You may not erect it in front of your dwelling. Bring a copy of your plot plan showing your lot and dwelling location. Indicate on it where the garage will be erected.. (Your plot plan should be with your house mortgage papers).

You will need to fill out a building permit application denoting the address where the garage is being constructed (Job Address), #2 owner's name, #3 who is installing the garage (yourself or a company), #7 describe what you are building, the size, and location (Such as rear of dwelling and distance from your lot lines), #8 the valuation (cost plus labor if any), and last your signature with date at the bottom. (The # numbers are the numbered lines on the building permit application).

You need to provide 2 copies of your plans (to scale), showing a plan view (top) and elevation view (side) along with a wall section. See Garage Example

A $ 15.00 permit fee is required for a fence installation or replacement. Bring a copy of your plot plan showing your lot lines and dwelling location, also indicate on it where the fence will be erected. Your plot plan should be with your home mortgage papers.

When there is a finished side to the fence, it will face away from your property. (Example; the chain fabric of a chain link fence or the pickets on a picket fence will face away from your property).

You will need to fill out a building permit application denoting the address where the fence is being installed (Job Address), #2 owner's name, #3 who is installing the fence (yourself or a company), #7 the type and height of the fence along with the location (Examples, rear, fronít, or side of dwelling), #8 the valuation (cost plus labor if any), and last your signature with date at the bottom. (The #numbers are the numbered lines on the building permit application).

A $ 25.00 permit fee is required for a swimming pool installation when the pool is 20' wide. Bring a copy of your plot showing your lot and dwelling location, also indicate on it where the pool will be located. Your plot plan should be with your house mortgage papers.

You will need to fill out a building permit application denoting the address where the swimming pool is being installed (Job Address), #2 owner's name, #3 who is installing the pool (yourself or a company), #7 the size of the pool with the location (Such as rear, front, or side of dwelling), #8 the valuation (cost plus labor if any), and last your signature with date at the bottom. (The #numbers are the numbered lines on the building permit application).

NOTE; Ordinance # 1851 FENCES, SURROUNDING POOLS; Every outdoor pool shall be completely surrounded by a fence or wall not less than 72 inches in height, which shall be so constructed as not to have openings, holes, or gaps larger than 4 inches in any dimension except for doors and gates; and if a picket fence is erected or maintained, the horizontal dimension shall not exceed 4 inches. A dwelling or accessory building may be used as part of such enclosure.

All gates or doors opening though such enclosure shall be equipped with a self-closing and self-latching device located at least 45 inches above grade level for keeping the gate or door securely closed at all times, except that the door of any dwelling which forms a part of the enclosure need not be so equipped . The provisions of this section shall be applicable to all outdoor pools which have a water depth of 18 inches or greater and a diameter of nine feet or greater, as regulated under the Uniform Plumbing code. No person either as an owner, purchaser, lessee, tenant, or licensee, in control of the property having such a pool shall fail to provide and maintain such fence or wall as herein provided.

You need a siding permit if you are residing a building. The permit is $ 25.00 for residential and commercial residing is based on the material plus labor cost, using Table 3A-UAC.

A roofing permit is needed if you replace your roofing. The permit fee for a residential buildings is $23.50 for overlaying a roof (Asphalt or fiberglass shingles may overlay over not more than two layers of asphalt or fiberglass roofing), and $ 40.00 for tearing off the old roofing and re-roofing. Commercial building roofing permits are based on Table 3A-UAC, which will include labor and materials.

A permit is required if you install a lawn sprinkler. The total permit fee is $38.30 to install the sprinkler and the back-flow prevention device, which is required.

A $ 25.00 permit is needed to move a building. Letters are also needed from any pertinent utility company verifying that the utilities have been removed properly.

Demolition permit fees for residential accessory structures no exceeding twelve hundred (1200) square feet shall be a flat rate of forty (40) dollars.

Demolition permit fees for one and two family dwellings shall be determined by the total cost of the demolition contract, as calculated from Table 3-A of the UAC.

For non-residential structures, the department of permits and inspections shall collect a fee of forty (40) percent of the Sarpy County Assessors valuation as calculated from Table 3-A of the UAC.

You need a permit if you install or replace your furnace or water-heater. The water-heater permit is $ 35.80 total. The total furnace permit is       $38.30 for 100,000 BTU or smaller and $ 41.70 for furnaces larger than 100,000 BTU. Attention needs to be placed on having an adequate amount of combustion air and clearance to combustibles. A permanently installed air conditioner requires a $ 38.20 permit when 3 ton or smaller. The permit is $ 50.65 when larger than 3 ton. An electrical disconnect for the air conditioner always will be required.

A $ 34.15 permit is required if you install a wood-burning stove or fireplace in your home. You need to install it per the manufacturer's installation instructions and listing and supply the same to us when you apply for the permit and when we inspect the installation.

A $ 34.15 permit is required if you install a gas fueled heater or fireplace in your home. You need to supply the manufacturer's installation instructions and listing.

Electrical permits are required when you install or repair electrical wiring. The fee is based as follows:

1.10 per opening for the first 20 openings and .73 per opening for all openings thereafter (An opening is a switch, outlet, or light) plus $23.50 permit fee.

Install or replace the electric service and panel is $ 54.00 total (Not over 200 Amps).

Permits are required to build or rebuild decks. The permit fee is based on Table 3A, which will include labor if any. on construction cost of material and labor if any.

1. A covered deck may be constructed in the rear yard and may extend only to your rear yard set-back area.

2. An uncovered rear deck that has a height no higher than the height limitations of your zoning area may be constructed so it extends a no more than 10 feet into the rear yard set-backs area.

3. An uncovered rear deck that is no higher than 30 inches may be constructed so it extends no closer than 3 feet from the rear property line and no more than 3 feet into the required side yard set-back area.

4. An uncovered front deck that is no higher than 30 inches may be constructed so it extends no more than10 feet into the front yard set-back.

5. Any deck that is constructed in the zoning set-back area may have a guardrail or railing that is no higher than 36 inches above the deck.

6 . Any guardrail that is within 5 feet from a property line will be required to be 50 % open for visibility. There are other rules pertaining to visibility at the corners of streets and streets & alleys.

Bring a copy of your plot plan showing your lot with dwelling location shown. Indicate on it where the deck will be erected.. (Your plot plan should be with your house mortgage papers).

You will need to fill out a building permit application denoting the address where the deck is being constructed (Job Address), #2 owner's name, #3 who is installing the deck (yourself or a company), #7 describe what you are building, the size, and location (Such as rear, front, or side of dwelling), #8 the valuation (cost plus labor if any), and last your signature with date at the bottom. (The #numbers are the numbered lines on the building permit application).

You need to provide 2 copies of your plans (to scale), showing a plan view (top) and elevation view (side). You need to show the species of wood (treated, redwood, or cedar), you need to show how the deck will be attached to the building, (size of ledger board and size of lag bolts with spacing), the size, spacing, and distance of span for the floor joists, the same for the beams that will support the joists. Show the size of the posts and location, the size and depth of the footings (minimum depth 42 inches, minimum width will be twice the width of the supported post and 6" minimum thickness) One of the installation methods is using the pier type footing where you dig an 8" or wider hole 42" deep, widen the bottom to twice the post width diameter, fill the hole completely with concrete, set a bolt or pin in the concrete so it protrudes a few inches above the concrete, when the concrete is cured the pin will insert into the bottom of the post and will hold the post from lateral movement, also the wood will last longer above the ground. The floor joists will be supported either by 1 ½ " bearing on wood or use the proper Tyco or Simpson type joist hanger that has a support under the joists. (Not by nails only). (Tyco and Simpson are listed by name only as recognizable examples, we will accept any 'listed' joist hanger.) Use only stainless steel, high strength aluminum, or hot dipped galvanized nails or screws. The exterior deck screws seem to be superior. Deck joists should not overhang beams by more than two feet, nor should beams overhang posts by more than one foot unless a special design is approved.

When the deck is 30" or more above the ground level you need a guardrail that extends 36" above the finished floor with all spaces or holes in the guard rail small enough so a 4" round ball will not pass though. When there are stairs, the minimum width is 36 inches. The maximum rise is 8 inches, minimum rise is 4 inches. Minimum run is 9 inches. The largest tread width or riser height shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch. A handrail/guardrail is required when there are more than three steps (counting the top landing) The 4" spacing rule, also applies to the steps if the steps are more than 30" above the ground. The top of the handrail shall be between 34" and 38" above the front edge of the steps. The handgrip portion of the handrail for the steps will be 1 1/4" to 2" round, however we accept a 2"x6" if laid flat and the corners are rounded , sanded smooth with no splinters. This would allow about 1 ½" to grip.

1. Structural changes require a Building Permit and two sets of plans (drawn to scale) showing the basement layout, proposed walls, rooms, etc.

2. Any wood in direct contact with concrete or masonry floor requires CCA treated wood or wood with natural resistance to decay.

3. Any Styrofoam, urethane foam, or foamboard must be covered with a 15 minute fire rating (example is ½" gypsum board).

4. Plumbing, heating, and electrical permits may also be required.

5. When alterations, repairs, and additions requiring a permit occur, or when one or more sleeping rooms are added or created in existing dwellings, the individual dwelling unit shall be clearly audible in all bedrooms over background noise levels with all intervening doors closed.

6. Basement headroom must be a minimum of 7' 6".

7. Fuel type furnaces and water-heaters must have an adequate combustion air supply.

8. Inspections which are required:

1. Framing Rough or First Inspection and Framing Final.
2. Possible Rough or First Inspection and Electrical/Mechanical/Plumbing Final.

9. Stairways shall have a minimum 6'8" headroom clearance measured up from the nose of the stairs and minimum 3' width.

1. Any room in a basement with a clothes closet shall be defined as a sleeping room.

2. All sleeping rooms shall have at least one door or egress window leading directly to the outside.

The egress window (Escape Window) is required to meet the following requirements:

Sill height..not more than 44' above the floor. Open able area.. Not less than 5.7 Sq. feet.

Minimum Open able height ...not less than 24". Minimum Open able width ... not less than 20".

(Examples are 24" x 34' (5.7 Sq. Ft.) or 20' x 41" (5.7 Sq Ft.)).

There are times when the egress window may be below the earth grade level and you will need a window well of the following minimum dimensions for the egress window in a basement:

The clear horizontal dimensions of the window well shall allow the window to be fully opened and provide a minimum accessible net clear opening of 3 feet X 3 feet. Window wells that have a vertical depth of more than 44 inches below the earth grade level, shall have a ladder permanently installed and accessible with the window in the fully open position, and also may not encroach more than 6 inches into the required clear opening.

This information is a guide to the most common questions and problems. It is not intended nor shall it be considered a complete set of requirements.

BUILDING PERMIT FEES City of Bellevue Year 2000 Table 3A